It felt surreal getting on the plane... I almost couldn't believe I was actually going to accomplish a dream of mine for some time. Call me a bit pessimistic (I like to think I'm a realistic optimist) but I had slowly begun to buy into the idea that after a certain time in your life, you should give up your dreams and "face reality". I have always wanted to travel extensively, but had put those dreams on hold since I started my family relatively young (at 22).
I made the mistake of taking United Airlines to Paris AND not taking the $99 upgrade to Economy Plus when it was offered to me. Needless to say, every muscle and joint was aching by the time I arrived at 7 am Paris-time.
With my one carry-on bag and one personal bag stuffed to the brim with shoes, I proceed to a machine to get my tickets for the RER train going from Charles De Gaulle to Clichy, where I will be staying. At this point, I'm feeling very proud, because I didn't have to check any baggage, plus I've studied the Metro and RER map over and over during the flight, and know my route well.
The route:
RER B to Gare du Nord
4 train (direction Porte de Clignancourt) 1 stop to Barbes Rouchouart
3 train (direction Porte Dauphine) 4 stops to Place de Clichy
13 train (direction Asnieres-Gennevilliers) 4 stops to Marie de Clichy
Laura, my host mother's sister (I feel so weird calling Agnes my host mother since we're the same age, but it fits somehow) agrees to meet me at the station once I call her.
I know that I have to buy a ticket for the RER train, as well as a Navigo weekly pass for the last week of July, and a monthly Navigo pass for the entire month of August.
Fun facts about the RER and Metro.
- The Metro serves Paris, and its immediate suburbs.
- The RER is a suburban high speed train that serves suburbs that are a little further outside of Paris.
- The RER has many stations within Paris that have direct transfers to Metro stations, so it's very convenient for people who live in the suburbs to get into Paris.
- The Navigo is a pass that offers discounted prices for volume purchases of rides, much like a Metrocard in New York.
- You can buy one week, one month, and I believe one year options (but don't quote me on the yearly one).
- It's graded by zones 1-5. The further out you need to travel regularly, the more expensive the pass. Most of Paris proper is served by zones 1 and 2.
- You can rent a bike using the Velib system with your Navigo pass.
- Charles de Gaulle is zone 5.
More story
Being used to New York Metrocard machines, I walk up to a Navigo machine. Logical, right? The machines at the airport don't take bills for some reason, so I then proceed to a ticket agent. The line is ridiculously long, and I wait for an hour. Meanwhile, I try to see if my phone will work so I can call Laura. Of course it won't. No problem, I try wi-fi, no go. At this point, I'm chalking it up to my jet lag and overall mental haze. I don't worry. I just wait on line and study my map a little more so that I can figure out exactly where I need to go once I get of the train at Mairie de Clichy...
When it's my turn, the agent doesn't speak English!
Ok, I'm in Paris, it makes sense. It's just that I quickly realize that my one semester of college French in no way prepares me to hold a conversation with someone.
Surprisingly, I'm able to secure my ticket, and find where I'm supposed to go. I get on the train, and the announcer starts rattling off something in French. No idea what she's saying... So I sit there, and slowly, everyone starts huffing and then exits the train. So I get off too, not sure where I'm going, so I follow everyone to the train across the platform. The mental haze is starting to lift, and I realize that I'm going to learn quite a lot during this trip.
Thankfully it starts moving, and I'm able to get to Clichy, albeit 3 hours later than I'm supposed to, where my host's mother's sister is waiting for me to arrive.
Laura speaks English with an almost imperceptible accent (due to her family's 4 year sojourn in California when she was young), and is warm and friendly despite operating on a few hours of sleep. She quickly shows me to my room, gives me a quick tour, and allows me to use her laptop to email friends and family.
Cultural aside - AZERTY
I start typing on the keyboard without looking at the letters (I've been typing for a couple of decades now, I'm good). Only I realize that I'm not typing what I think I'm typing. It's an AZERTY keyboard not QWERTY. The keyboard is different, not totally but different enough to turn my words into nonsense.
So I adjust, and over the course of the month, I become pretty good at typing on this keyboard as well. It shows how easily the mind can adjust to newness...
Quick caveat to explain that I'm not completely inept: I've planned numerous trips for professionals and executives, who incidentally can be whinier than your worst tired and hungry 2 year old. With them, every little detail has to be ironed out, because you can be sure they will question you about it over and over again. I give this quick caveat because I felt totally inept the first day in Paris, but my self-confidence was buffered by the overall haze that is jet lag.